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If you want to modify the operation of the Engine
Cooling Fan, which provides cooling to the inter cooler as well, in
order to make the operation of the fan manually selected, regardless of
the under-hood temperature here is an easy way to do it. 1. Locate in the engine bay the fuse/relay box. Looking into the bay from the driver's side (left hand drive cars) it is located between you and the engine somewhat to the right, lift the cover and note two connector plugs. One towards you, (first plug) somewhere in the middle of the box, to the left of the EFI Relay, and one towards the engine, (second plug) to the top of the box, left of the three fuses (top EFI fuse, Vent fuse under and ECU-IG fuse under vent fuse). Go to the second plug and locate pin no.3 where a black/red wire cones out from the top. Pin No. 3 is the one on the bottom line ( towards you and left from the Vent 20A fuse) extreme right corner pin of the plug. (You can work without removing the plug.) 2. This wire (black/red) is the wire taking ground from the Engine Cooling Fan ECU to the fan relay, is normally on - that is it provides a ground to the relay continue sly, the relay being energized in the normal condition but the fan is OFF since the relay contacts in the energized position disconnect the fan from power. 3. With a wire cutter, cut this wire making sure you leave half of it on the plug and half of it on the harness...take care since the overall length of this wire is not much. 4. You can start the engine, after cutting this wire and notice that the fan is now running. If not, you have cut some other wire instead. Go back and double check. 5. With the engine switched off, connect a pair of wires to the two loose ends, making good electrical contact and insulate the joints. You can use electrical crimping splices, you will need a crimping tool for this, but you do not need additional insulation as those splices are insulated, use the red ones, this is the smallest diameter, since the wire is rather thin. 6. Route the two wires (preferably a pair with overall insulation) out of the fuse/relay box (there is some free exit space on the bottom of the box but it is a little hard to locate. Use a flash light from the outside/under and look from the top to locate the opening). 7. Once the wires are out, route them through the fire wall. To do so you will have to remove the left side panel behind the driver seat, the center console and the armrest console as well as the top cover of the loudspeaker box. First remove the top of the loudspeaker box, lift the end towards the seat, there are three snap plugs there and from the inside unscrew the three screws under the hinge and remove the cover. Then check on the right side of the exposed area there are two plastic plugs that hold the side panel's bottom portion. Remove them. Also lift the plastic gutter of the drivers door rear end slightly to free the side panel and pull the side panel off starting from bottom to the top. There are six or seven snap plugs to get loose. Hinge the top end out as there are two teeth going underneath. 8. Remove the rest, there are 4 screws into the rear console, two inside the top box and two inside the bottom one. Do NOT remove the screws which are outside the console sides. Lift the console out. Then remove the 4 side screws on the armrest, remove the gear shift leather cover upwards and the plastic cover after lifting from rear towards the front. Hinge the front out. Then remove two screws exposed up front. There are 6 screws all together to remove on the armrest. Lift the armrest off. 9. Move the seat all the way up front. Look to the fire wall carpeting and lift it from bottom to top. You will not remove it from the top, just lift it upwards to expose the duct (hole) with the wires passing to the engine bay. Find a way to hold the carpet fast. Remove an oval sound proofing patch and lift the cable harness from a fastener just under the feed-through hole by pushing on the clip. Put a blunt screw driver where the rubber cup meets the metal of the fire wall and work the rubber cup out towards you. It works as a big rubber grommet with a dent for the metal. Once removed, unfasten the electrical tape completely, making sure that you do not remove the plastic adapter clip which holds the harness to the fire wall. If so, mark the place to re-install it. Once you have removed the tape, you can easily pass the wires through the center hole of the big rubber grommet. I suggest to pass any additional wires that you would require for other mods etc so that you will not have to do this again ( EVC etc). NOTE: I have noticed after completion that it is MUCH easier to route the wires from cabin to engine compartment than the opposite, especially if you have NOT removed the air filter box. So the wire laying is better in reverse order. 10. With the wires through, re-tape the rubber grommet push it through to fit in the fire wall, move it sideways to make sure it is properly located, clip the plastic fastener to hold the harness fast to the fire wall, replace the oval pad and route the wire to the armrest up front via the rear of the speaker box, push it there all the way to the bottom. Then pull down the mat, make sure it fits properly behind the strap fasteners, re-install the side panel working from top to bottom, (I used some rubber glue to hold the snap plugs in place), do not forget the two plastic plugs on the bottom side and then fit the speaker box cover, three screws there and flip/snap it closed (three snap plugs). 11. You can install the switch on the plastic cover around the gear shift lever or you can route it to the side of the fog lights switch where there is space provided for two more switches. Get a stock fog switch and connect it there. Make sure that you wire it so that normal should be closed switch (wire ends sorted together) and activated should be open switch (wire ends open). 12. Re-install the remaining. You can now manually operate the engine cooling fan which will also provide fresh air to the inter cooler. This helps on boosts at low speed. It should be here noted that the panel light does NOT come on with this modification. It will come on though if the engine temperature rises and the cooling ECU takes over. The stock operation is still active as long as your switch is in the auto (not manual) operation providing a connection between the two wires. If one wishes to have the light ON as well, then the wires have to run all the way to the ECU instead of the plug in the fuse/relay box. There the two wires will connect a 800 ohm resistor between terminals 5 (L) and 6 (L-O) of the cooling fan ECU (located next to the engine ECU). I did NOT make this mod as I wanted to avoid getting additional wires into the engine ECU compartment in fear of Radio Frequency Interference to the engine ECU from my high power ham system on board. I have installed the switch just behind the gear shifter along with the re-located fog lights switch and the antenna control switch. I have installed the HKS EVC + Timer control boxes at the original location of the fog light switch. |
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| *******On this website I am sharing the things I find out along the way. I do not guarantee that these modifications will work on your specific vehicle, any damages caused as part of the installation or use of these modifications are the the responsibility of the person who performed the installation. | ||||||
